Ginkgo Extract Reduces Severity of Altitude Sickness
Taking an extract of Ginkgo biloba one day prior to rapidly ascending a mountain may help reduce the severity of altitude sickness, according to a new study in High Altitude Medicine and Biology (2002;3:29–37). This is encouraging for the millions of skiers, mountain climbers, and other high-altitude outdoor recreational enthusiasts who have been limited or unable to participate in these activities due to the debilitating symptoms associated with altitude sickness.
Altitude sickness, also called acute mountain sickness, is a condition that results from the decreased concentration of oxygen in the air at high altitudes. Symptoms may start to occur at any altitude 2,000 meters (6,700 feet) above sea level or higher. Symptoms may include headache, nausea, disorientation, mood changes, dizziness, fatigue, or swelling in the arms and legs. Symptoms usually resolve once a person returns to a lower altitude. Conventional preventive treatment for altitude sickness includes acetazolamide (Diamox®–a diuretic) and dexamethasone (Decadron®–a steroid), but both medications can cause serious side effects. Ginkgo biloba may be an effective, and safer, alternative in preventing altitude sickness.
In this study, 26 people were assigned to receive 180 mg per day of a standardized extract of Gingko biloba or placebo 24 hours before ascending Mauna Kea in Hawaii. The following day, participants were driven from sea level to a height of 4,200 meters (13,650 feet) in 3 hours. Questionnaires were used to evaluate symptoms at sea level and then after reaching the summit.
Overall, 21 of 26 participants developed some degree of altitude sickness (58% of those taking ginkgo and 93% of those taking the placebo). Although the lower frequency of altitude sickness in the ginkgo group was not statistically significant, the ginkgo group had significantly less severe altitude sickness symptoms than did those taking placebo. No adverse effects of treatment were observed in those taking ginkgo.
The effect of ginkgo in reducing the severity of, and possibly preventing, altitude sickness may have been underestimated in this study. Since most mountain climbers ascend mountains more slowly than they did in this study, the effect of gingko during rapid ascension may not be a true reflection of what would occur with typical mountain climbing. However, more research is necessary to determine if gingko would have a greater preventive effect against altitude sickness under normal climbing circumstances.
A cautionary note: Ginkgo biloba has been associated with thinning of the blood. Individuals with blood-clotting disorders and those who are taking prescription blood thinners such as warfarin (Coumadin®) should not take ginkgo without the supervision of a physician.
Darin Ingels, ND, MT (ASCP), received his bachelor’s degree from Purdue University and his Doctorate of Naturopathic Medicine from Bastyr University in Kenmore, WA. Dr. Ingels is the author of The Natural Pharmacist: Lowering Cholesterol (Prima, 1999) and Natural Treatments for High Cholesterol (Prima, 2000). He currently is in private practice at New England Family Health Associates located in Southport, CT, where he specializes in environmental medicine and allergies. Dr. Ingels is a regular contributor to Healthnotes and Healthnotes Newswire.Copyright © 2002 Healthnotes, Inc. All rights reserved. Republication or redistribution of the Healthnotes® content is expressly prohibited without the prior written consent of Healthnotes, Inc. Healthnotes Newswire is for educational or informational purposes only, and is not intended to diagnose or provide treatment for any condition. If you have any concerns about your own health, you should always consult with a healthcare professional. Healthnotes, Inc. shall not be liable for
Friday, January 18, 2008
Wednesday, May 9, 2007
Community Pillar Notes
Community Pillar 5.9
60M rope
Full double set of cams including 2 #5 Camalots
1 Large (8 inch) Big Bro
12 slings
Follow route description in Swain Guide.
Pitch 1 5.8
Go out and left around the Chockstone on the face and belay above the chockstone 100 feet
Pitch 2 5.9
Climb up an a crack and belay at its top 60 feet
Pitch 3 5.6
Move up through Class 4 and then 5.6 climbing up and to the right of another chockstone/chimney section 170 feet
Pitch 4 5-8
Climb an offwidth crack to its top and belay on a ledge. Large pro is needed toward the top – Big bro 8 incch 130 feet
Pitch 5 5.7
Climb a crack to reach a belay in an alcove. 100 feet
Pitch 6 5.8
Stay in the chimney. The face out to the left is loose and unprotected. Move to the back of the chimney. Climb up and slightly out to the right via a crack on the back wall. Near the top of the crack, look for a tunnel over your left shoulder. Tunnel through to a good ledge. 120 feet
Pitch 7 4th Class
Move out right and up through 4th Class face to the un roping spot which is below a large square pillar. 160 feet.
Descent:
Move around the right (west) side of the pillar past a pine tree and down to another pine tree at the head of a gulley. Rappel here and be mindful of the loose rock. The first one down can move left to a protected area. Move down and left through a notch and continue SW down across an open bowl and to the end of the ledge system where you will find a rappel from a bush and fixed stopper. Once in the descent gulley, continue down past a couple more short rappels and on down to the creek.
60M rope
Full double set of cams including 2 #5 Camalots
1 Large (8 inch) Big Bro
12 slings
Follow route description in Swain Guide.
Pitch 1 5.8
Go out and left around the Chockstone on the face and belay above the chockstone 100 feet
Pitch 2 5.9
Climb up an a crack and belay at its top 60 feet
Pitch 3 5.6
Move up through Class 4 and then 5.6 climbing up and to the right of another chockstone/chimney section 170 feet
Pitch 4 5-8
Climb an offwidth crack to its top and belay on a ledge. Large pro is needed toward the top – Big bro 8 incch 130 feet
Pitch 5 5.7
Climb a crack to reach a belay in an alcove. 100 feet
Pitch 6 5.8
Stay in the chimney. The face out to the left is loose and unprotected. Move to the back of the chimney. Climb up and slightly out to the right via a crack on the back wall. Near the top of the crack, look for a tunnel over your left shoulder. Tunnel through to a good ledge. 120 feet
Pitch 7 4th Class
Move out right and up through 4th Class face to the un roping spot which is below a large square pillar. 160 feet.
Descent:
Move around the right (west) side of the pillar past a pine tree and down to another pine tree at the head of a gulley. Rappel here and be mindful of the loose rock. The first one down can move left to a protected area. Move down and left through a notch and continue SW down across an open bowl and to the end of the ledge system where you will find a rappel from a bush and fixed stopper. Once in the descent gulley, continue down past a couple more short rappels and on down to the creek.
Chuckwalla Notes
Chuckwalla 5.9
1 set of stoppers
Double set of BD C3’s or Aliens
2 each #.5-2 Camalot
1 each #3 Camalot
12 Slings
Follow Supertopo Guide
The Turtle head formation does not remind me of a turtle head, but these pictures show where to move up and through the red rock band near its end. After moving up through this 3rd Class section, cut east up the slope and then move back west across the ramp system and into the main Canyon.
Combine these with the description and recommendations in the supertopo.
Be careful with rope placement for the first rappel.
1 set of stoppers
Double set of BD C3’s or Aliens
2 each #.5-2 Camalot
1 each #3 Camalot
12 Slings
Follow Supertopo Guide
The Turtle head formation does not remind me of a turtle head, but these pictures show where to move up and through the red rock band near its end. After moving up through this 3rd Class section, cut east up the slope and then move back west across the ramp system and into the main Canyon.
Combine these with the description and recommendations in the supertopo.
Be careful with rope placement for the first rappel.
Dark Shadows To The Top - Notes
Dark Shadows 11 Pitches 5.8
60M rope
Standard Rack to 3 inches
12 Slings
Climb Pitch 1-4 as per any of the guidebooks and belay the 4th pitch at the anchor 20 feet up and right of the Dark Shadows rap anchors. You will also have passed a set of anchors just below the huge roof of “Heart of Darkness”
Pitch 5 5.7
Climb up a crack with one bolt past an overhang. Continue up a crack, past a second small overhang and up a wide crack to a large platform with two bolts. Belay from here for the step across to the next pitch. 130 feet
Pitch 6 5.7
Step across a gap and move out left across the face to gain a crack about 15 feet above a belay station. Move up the crack onto the face trending up and left to a two bolt belay station. 150 feet
Pitch 7 5.8
Climb up a thin crack and pull through a roof. Continue up the crack until it ends at a small ledge with loose rock. Set a piece with a long sling and move right across the face about 15 feet to another crack that will take you up to a belay below a large arching roof. 160 feet
Pitch 8 5.7
Climb up a crack and through the roof up to a large ledge. Continue up and right in a crack to a second ledge with one bolt and belay here. 180 feet
Pitch 9 5.7
Move left up a corner nearly to a ledge, and then step back right onto the face. Move right up the face, through another small roof, and continue up a crack to a giant ledge where one can belay from a tree. 160 feet
Pitch 10 4th Class
Find a small trail up and left to the base of the wall and find a right trending crack which leads up through some pocketed face moves to a bushy ramp. Belay at the Pine tree at the top of the ramp. 170 feet
Pitch 11 5.5
Move left across a ledge past a large boulder and to a crack leading upward between a right and left facing corner. Move up and right along the left facing corner to gain a ledge at the un-roping spot. 160 feet
Descent off of the SOUTH side of the Mescalito
It is easier and quicker to descend the opposite side from which you climbed.
From the un-roping spot, move west up to the summit and sign the register. Continue west and south to find a large ledge system on the south side of the formation. Look for cairns and start moving West-Southwest. A GPS waypoint that will ensure that you are on the right path is:
E 0635295
N 3998356
(NAD 27)
Follow the ledge system around and past one large gulley. Do NOT go down this first gulley. It looks improbable, but go on around the head of this gulley and continue on the ledge system. Here is a set of waypoints that should keep you on track:
E 0635265
N 3998333
E 0635219
N 3998359
E 0635226
N 3998375
E 0635156
N 3998353
(All NAD 27)
Continue on the ledge system to the next big gulley. Go to the very head of the gulley and then start down. You will move down a couple hundred feet staying in the center of a widening, brushy gulley. Look for a way onto a rock rib to your right which defines the right (west) margin of the gulley. Gain the rib and continue down it (Class 3) until it is reasonable to move right again into a chimney/gulley between the rib and the wall to the right.
At the bottom of this narrow gulley, make an exposed traverse back to the left (east) into an alcove. In the alcove is a small tree from which to make a 100 foot rappel to the ground. (A better rappel station is needed here) From here, it is a short scramble down to the creek bed of the south fork. Walk out the creek bed to the fork at the base of the Mescalito and move to the north to find the trail back to the car.
60M rope
Standard Rack to 3 inches
12 Slings
Climb Pitch 1-4 as per any of the guidebooks and belay the 4th pitch at the anchor 20 feet up and right of the Dark Shadows rap anchors. You will also have passed a set of anchors just below the huge roof of “Heart of Darkness”
Pitch 5 5.7
Climb up a crack with one bolt past an overhang. Continue up a crack, past a second small overhang and up a wide crack to a large platform with two bolts. Belay from here for the step across to the next pitch. 130 feet
Pitch 6 5.7
Step across a gap and move out left across the face to gain a crack about 15 feet above a belay station. Move up the crack onto the face trending up and left to a two bolt belay station. 150 feet
Pitch 7 5.8
Climb up a thin crack and pull through a roof. Continue up the crack until it ends at a small ledge with loose rock. Set a piece with a long sling and move right across the face about 15 feet to another crack that will take you up to a belay below a large arching roof. 160 feet
Pitch 8 5.7
Climb up a crack and through the roof up to a large ledge. Continue up and right in a crack to a second ledge with one bolt and belay here. 180 feet
Pitch 9 5.7
Move left up a corner nearly to a ledge, and then step back right onto the face. Move right up the face, through another small roof, and continue up a crack to a giant ledge where one can belay from a tree. 160 feet
Pitch 10 4th Class
Find a small trail up and left to the base of the wall and find a right trending crack which leads up through some pocketed face moves to a bushy ramp. Belay at the Pine tree at the top of the ramp. 170 feet
Pitch 11 5.5
Move left across a ledge past a large boulder and to a crack leading upward between a right and left facing corner. Move up and right along the left facing corner to gain a ledge at the un-roping spot. 160 feet
Descent off of the SOUTH side of the Mescalito
It is easier and quicker to descend the opposite side from which you climbed.
From the un-roping spot, move west up to the summit and sign the register. Continue west and south to find a large ledge system on the south side of the formation. Look for cairns and start moving West-Southwest. A GPS waypoint that will ensure that you are on the right path is:
E 0635295
N 3998356
(NAD 27)
Follow the ledge system around and past one large gulley. Do NOT go down this first gulley. It looks improbable, but go on around the head of this gulley and continue on the ledge system. Here is a set of waypoints that should keep you on track:
E 0635265
N 3998333
E 0635219
N 3998359
E 0635226
N 3998375
E 0635156
N 3998353
(All NAD 27)
Continue on the ledge system to the next big gulley. Go to the very head of the gulley and then start down. You will move down a couple hundred feet staying in the center of a widening, brushy gulley. Look for a way onto a rock rib to your right which defines the right (west) margin of the gulley. Gain the rib and continue down it (Class 3) until it is reasonable to move right again into a chimney/gulley between the rib and the wall to the right.
At the bottom of this narrow gulley, make an exposed traverse back to the left (east) into an alcove. In the alcove is a small tree from which to make a 100 foot rappel to the ground. (A better rappel station is needed here) From here, it is a short scramble down to the creek bed of the south fork. Walk out the creek bed to the fork at the base of the Mescalito and move to the north to find the trail back to the car.
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