Community Pillar 5.9
60M rope
Full double set of cams including 2 #5 Camalots
1 Large (8 inch) Big Bro
12 slings
Follow route description in Swain Guide.
Pitch 1 5.8
Go out and left around the Chockstone on the face and belay above the chockstone 100 feet
Pitch 2 5.9
Climb up an a crack and belay at its top 60 feet
Pitch 3 5.6
Move up through Class 4 and then 5.6 climbing up and to the right of another chockstone/chimney section 170 feet
Pitch 4 5-8
Climb an offwidth crack to its top and belay on a ledge. Large pro is needed toward the top – Big bro 8 incch 130 feet
Pitch 5 5.7
Climb a crack to reach a belay in an alcove. 100 feet
Pitch 6 5.8
Stay in the chimney. The face out to the left is loose and unprotected. Move to the back of the chimney. Climb up and slightly out to the right via a crack on the back wall. Near the top of the crack, look for a tunnel over your left shoulder. Tunnel through to a good ledge. 120 feet
Pitch 7 4th Class
Move out right and up through 4th Class face to the un roping spot which is below a large square pillar. 160 feet.
Descent:
Move around the right (west) side of the pillar past a pine tree and down to another pine tree at the head of a gulley. Rappel here and be mindful of the loose rock. The first one down can move left to a protected area. Move down and left through a notch and continue SW down across an open bowl and to the end of the ledge system where you will find a rappel from a bush and fixed stopper. Once in the descent gulley, continue down past a couple more short rappels and on down to the creek.
60M rope
Full double set of cams including 2 #5 Camalots
1 Large (8 inch) Big Bro
12 slings
Follow route description in Swain Guide.
Pitch 1 5.8
Go out and left around the Chockstone on the face and belay above the chockstone 100 feet
Pitch 2 5.9
Climb up an a crack and belay at its top 60 feet
Pitch 3 5.6
Move up through Class 4 and then 5.6 climbing up and to the right of another chockstone/chimney section 170 feet
Pitch 4 5-8
Climb an offwidth crack to its top and belay on a ledge. Large pro is needed toward the top – Big bro 8 incch 130 feet
Pitch 5 5.7
Climb a crack to reach a belay in an alcove. 100 feet
Pitch 6 5.8
Stay in the chimney. The face out to the left is loose and unprotected. Move to the back of the chimney. Climb up and slightly out to the right via a crack on the back wall. Near the top of the crack, look for a tunnel over your left shoulder. Tunnel through to a good ledge. 120 feet
Pitch 7 4th Class
Move out right and up through 4th Class face to the un roping spot which is below a large square pillar. 160 feet.
Descent:
Move around the right (west) side of the pillar past a pine tree and down to another pine tree at the head of a gulley. Rappel here and be mindful of the loose rock. The first one down can move left to a protected area. Move down and left through a notch and continue SW down across an open bowl and to the end of the ledge system where you will find a rappel from a bush and fixed stopper. Once in the descent gulley, continue down past a couple more short rappels and on down to the creek.
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